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Wednesday, June 7, 2017

Drenched and Dirty

There was some beautiful scenery yesterday and some great experiences...but it was largely defined by the rain and the mud. My host made me a nice breakfast, chatted with me a little more, and saw me off into the rain, at that point a drizzle, which she said was likely the best I'd get today, telling me to text when I arrived (that having fed me, I now owed letting her mother me a day or two).

The rain quickly picked up, but I was at least prepared for it. And thankfully, the wind was blowing me the right way, so there was at least that. I had two possible routes, the Greenway route which was longer and would take me through Hartford, or a more diagonal route to cross the river at Middletown. I opted for the latter. It took me on on this wonderfully scenic Airline Trail, that I think I would have enjoyed greatly...if it weren't a muddy mess thanks to the rain. With each foot of muddy trail, with each puddle big and small, my bike, my booties, and my back were quickly covered in mud. It quickly got to the point where my drive train was gunky and crunchy from all the mud and gunk it was getting in it. I saw plenty of scenery, woods and marshland and rivers, pretty even in, or perhaps more so, in the rain. But stopping felt so miserable to do, and I didn't want to soak my phone, so I took fewer pictures than I otherwise might have. One of the things that drove me mad about the trail is that frequently the barriers to keep out cars offered so tight a path I had to step off the bike, and into the mud, to get through.

I was amazed I was not quite the only one on the trail, seeing several runners and one bicyclist who was heading the other way. Eventually, as I went to cross a road, the cyclist who had passed earlier came up to me and asked about my trip. He offered for me to come with him to his house nearby to rest out of the rain and refill on water (which I joked I had plenty of) and food. I thanked him but declined, because I knew if I got out of the rain, it would be damn hard to make myself go back into it again. I said I considered getting off the muddy trail onto the highway, but he advised against it and said I didn't have too much longer on trail before I'd be on decent highways. He wished me luck and went on his way at quite the pace, leaving me to continue slogging along.

After getting off trail it was onto the highway. I made my way to Middletown and crossed the river there. Taking that bridge was the first time that I have been seriously honked at all trip. I guess I should have taken the pedestrian crossing, but there were no signs of any sort to indicate that, and by the time I was on the bridge it was too late. But I made it across okay. The rain finally let off to a drizzle around then. I went into a gas station to use the bathroom and buy food, and when asked how I was, I said I felt how I looked, a muddy mess, but glad the rain had stopped.

I was on decent highway, 17, from there much of the way to New Haven. Google had me detour off for a time onto these side roads up a very big hill, and for a stretch along a road much to narrow to be two way as it was, and I debate whether this was necessary...but it had a little scenery from the trouble, and once I had turned off it was too late to turn around.

Hitting New Haven, I was surprised at how bad a shape much of the city that hosts Yale is in. It was not what I expected. I detoured to see Yale (because as I told my host tonight, I might as well try to hit all the Ivy Leagues at this point), and while it has some impressive buildings, somehow the aesthetics just didn't appeal the way others have. Though might have been influenced by my terrible need to urinate and the heavy construction making it really hard to get back out of the area. On the edge of town I found a convenience store, and asked for a bathroom just as another gentleman was receiving its key and being told by the man about all the vandalism it had before getting locked up.

I got on good highway along the water then, a lovely boardwalk for a time (that curiously had a sign banning bikes after 4:30pm...), then highway, then various roads through Milford, until arriving at my host's. He had other guests for the night (who had actually contacted his wife's account, while I had contacted his) who were there when I arrived, a couple from Seattle who had been biking around the area (having started on the Erie Canal in Buffalo) and visiting people they knew. We all had a place in the loft over the garage, even complete with a miniature (and I mean miniature) bathroom on the first floor. While they left for a walk, I took to the lengthy task of hosing down my bike and gear, drying it, cleaning the drivetrain, and getting the chain (that had been squeaking the last few miles on me) relubricated. After our host arrived, I got my shower, and the world was cleanly again. We had a nice dinner together and talked touring stories and tech companies together. I discovered, much to the mutual relief of the couple, that the forecast for today is now clear, when it had looked like rain again before. When it came time for bed, there was only the one futon for the three of us, and while I offered to let them have it, they kindly chose the floor. I decided there was no sense arguing, and ended up enjoying a restful night's sleep.

And now, into New York.





























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