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Tuesday, July 11, 2017

The End of the Road

What a day. I woke up just after midnight to the winds raging. Checking the weather forecast and the radar, it looked like a big storm was headed my way. I had a realization, and rushed, shirtless and shoeless, out to my bike. I immediately took her off the kickstand, knowing that was a recipe for disaster. With the wind from the East, I tried to lean her up against the picnic table in that direction and get the cable around her and the table so she couldn't fall. Then I rushed back into my tent. It took me awhile, listening to the wind whipping, seeing the lightning flashes through my tent, and worrying about a downpour to come, before I could finally go back to sleep. When I awoke, amazingly it was to find it was morning, and the rain never came. But despite my efforts, Bree fell over in the night. I should have laid her down in the first place, but I was worried about rain with her on the ground. But her descent was on the non-drive side, slowed by cable, and cushioned by panniers. And in the dawn light, still shirtless and shoeless, I checked that she was okay, even going on a quick ride around the parking lot. We had both gotten through the night unscathed.

A little before 8, I had everything packed up, some trail mix in my belly, and was on the road to Key West. It was not long before I reached the famed 7 mile bridge I had heard so much about, good and bad. It was incredible, beautiful blue ocean on either side, a view of the old bridge (which I believe will one day be repaired and used for the bike path, which would be amazing), including where it connects to a key the new bridge does not, now seeming almost wholly cut off, it was just mile after mile of bridge and endless blue. I couldn't stop, but I had wide shoulder, so when no traffic was coming up, I took a couple over the shoulder, not looking shots of the sort I've become practiced at. But pictures do nothing to convey the experience of it. Riding across that bridge was truly one of the grandest experiences of my life. Of course, halfway across, some guy in a truck had to blare his horn at me for no reason at all, but that's mandatory when crossing a bridge, and so I just shrugged it off.

There is effort to make a bike trail connecting all the Keys, but it is incomplete in many places. There were several times where I felt frustrated seeing the unfinished trail, especially the bridge spans, thinking how nice it would be if I were doing this when it's complete, so I could be able to stop and take pictures without concern of traffic. But there was generally good shoulder/bike lane, and where there wasn't, there usually was bike lane. The stuff people warned me about with the Keys seem to be wholly out of base, and I'm guessing from all the construction, it is because of recent improvements. The Keys as they are now are truly an enjoyable and fairly safe ride. And they are getting better and better with the trail they're working on. ...Until, you know, eventually it all goes under water. But hey, that will be quite a few decades off probably.

It was exhilarating watching the mile markers pass by through the day, each one a count down on my remaining distance to the end of the road. I biked on at a wonderful pace, wind at my back, with anticipation rising by the mile. But I still took the time to stop where appropriate. I saw some adorable small deer that I had to get shots of. I also failed multiple times to photograph those damned skittish iguanas. I also saw a stingray in the clear waters as I crossed a bridge, with no chance to stop.

But the real wonder of the day came not in the wildlife or scenery, but rather a fellow traveler. I passed him by, a man carrying a heavy pack, as he walked on bike path (which switched sides of the road often, while I stayed on the same side as long as I had bike lane) and I was on the bike lane on the opposite side of the road. For a moment I thought ah well. Then said, no, that man has a story, and I'll regret it if I don't find it out. I found a break in traffic and made a u turn to get back to him. It turned out I was right. He had started in Alaska. On a bike. Until in Mississippi he crashed (head down against the wind, not expecting the car ahead to dash out into traffic, but next thing he was going face first into the side of it as it turned). He woke up in a hospital with serious injuries. After recovering, he spent time in town building up a new bike since his was totalled. Then right when he was ready to set out to continue his adventure to Key West, that bike was stolen. He said the heck with it. And decided he would walk the rest of the way. And here I was meeting him with less than 30 miles to go. After two years since he started. Yeah. I gave him all my heartfelt congratulations and well wishes for the road remaining, then biked on to finish my own adventure (the mere two months put in perspective).

The miles counted down, M-20, -10, -5, and I was in Key West. I was so close. ...And then I said the hell with it, what's the hurry, and took the long way around. I biked up to the tourist trap area. And saw that it was in fact just a big tourist trap. I got a very overpriced key lime smoothie (I expected it to be twice the size for the cost), warily locked up my bike, and walked around a bit, checking out the shops and Mallory Square. By the time my smoothie was done, I was done with that part of town, and I decided it was time to bike on to the end of the road.

My triumphant moment of reaching the Southernmost Point (which actually isn't really the Southernmost, but I digress), it was dampened a bit by then standing in a long line to do my picture. Tourist traps, right? As I stood in the heat, feeling ready to be done for the day, I'll admit I felt a tinge of "hey, none of the rest of you worked near as hard to get here, could I please not have to wait this long?" But it wasn't so long to wait in the scheme of how long it had taken me to get there. An Asian tourist took my and Bree's picture. Then I took awkward victory video you see below. Several people had questions and congratulations following it. I biked on along Smathers Beach and enjoyed some more incredible views, before arriving at the hotel, having done a loop of Key West.

It was a grand day at the end of the road. I relaxed in my stupidly overpriced hotel that isn't even in walking distance of the cool stuff (if only I had known there's a hostel), walked down to get some Dominos (yep, decided to go boring on my meal), and enjoyed the sunset. It was a simple, but perfect, end to my day.

I did it. Today, two months from when I began this adventure, I made it here to Key West. ...And tomorrow I have to bike back up the Keys. Three more days to get back to Taryn's place, where I can get Bree boxed, and take the bus home. No rest for the weary. At least not yet. 200 miles left to go. Let's do this.
















































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